Larmandier-Bernier Vieilles Vignes du Levant Grand Cru 2014

The 2014 Blanc de Blancs Vieille Vigne du Levant, disgorged in March 2023, rises from the glass with aromas of citrus oil, peach and pear, mingled with notes of freshly baked bread. On the palate, it is medium- to full-bodied, concentrated and incisive, with a deep core of fruit, considerable tension, racy acidity and a precise, saline finish. Expect a slightly more powerful and more giving rendition than the 2013 and simultaneously a touch more tensile. The 2014 Extra Brut Vieilles Vignes de Levant Grand Cru is a gorgeous, vinous Champagne. It emerges from 60-to-80-year-old vines on Cramant's east-facing slope. Tangerine peel, hazelnut, spice, menthol and dried flowers are all signs of a Champagne that has arrived at its peak of maturity. Even so, the balance here is exquisite. Readers seeking Champagne with a bit of bottle-age complexity will adore this. Dosage is 2 grams per liter. Disgorged: September 2023.